Where to eat good but cheap in Lisbon
Lisbon is currently the center of the gastronomic scene. Restaurants are opening on every corner, each more chic than the last. The only bad thing is that with all the hype, everything gets more expensive. Still, from a Northern European perspective, it is crazy how good you can eat in Lisbon and how little you pay.
But this entry is for the students and low-income earners among us - who want to eat fantastic and don't want to pay much!
So here you go:
Taberna Sal Grosso
The best place in Lisbon to get good, fantastic Portuguese food in the form of Portuguese tapas. The place is super small and only seats about 25 people. So you really should reserve your table (via google maps) - they have two spots in the evening, but you can also go for lunch. Note that the venue is down in the basement, so it can get pretty hot in the summer and you can't sit outside. But inside it's very cozy and authentic. They do not have a real menu, but a board on the wall that shows what they serve: it is divided into vegetarian, fish and meat options. The vegetarian options are amazing, as are the fish: try the eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, tuna, octopus with mashed potatoes, and calamari. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with olive oil and sea salt. The prices per dish vary, but are very, very fair - even the really big ones (like the grilled octopus) are about 10 euros. You need 1-2 tapas per person. And the housewine in the carafes is very good and affordable! And they serve free water... I just have to say: this is my favorite place to eat in Lisbon!
Located in the heart of Alfama, you can take a nice walk there before or after dinner.
Caja Pasta Fresca
My other big favorite when it comes to Italian food and pasta is this one. A "hole in the wall" kind of atmosphere, very little space inside but some tables outside as well. The concept is that you choose your type of pasta and then your sauce and add some extras if you like. Depending on your choices, you can end up with a nice pasta dish for only 6 euro. But also the more "fancy" ones are super affordable, like the stuffed ravioli or the homemade tagliatelle with ragu. The parmesan cakes as a starter for 2,- are really a hit, as well as the desserts (and how cheap they are!). Wine by the bottle is 11,- and they have a really nice red Lambrusco that you should try. Reserve your table by phone and choose your slot and be sure to have an absolutely fantastic evening.
Note: Located in Anjos, next to some really nice bars: Crew Hassan (bar with DJ and a hidden club in the basement) and Rude (a very nice wine bar).
Valdo Gatti Cacilhas
The best Neapolitan pizza you can get in Lisbon is at Valdo Gatti. The dough is exceptionally flavorful, and the sauce is sweet and balanced. Their prime location is in the Barrio Alto, but since you can't reserve a table, you'll have to wait quite a while. But they have opened a second location across the river in Cacilhas! Even though the interior is very urban and cool and they have a lot of space outside, I recommend you get your pizza to go and walk the 500m along the river and sit on one of the piers, watch the sun set behind the bridge and enjoy the fantastic panorama of Lisbon city. You can easily get there by ferry from Cais do Sodré and it takes 10 minutes to cross the river.
Las Gringas
The hole in the wall for the best tacos! Hope you like it spicy! Tucked away in the basement, this place offers the best Mexican food in Lisbon and gives you the whole "we eat in the basement/club" vibe. Unplastered walls, neon lights and house music add to the atmosphere. You may have to wait in line to get a table (no reservations), but it is worth it to get some taco chips on the house and drink a beer. If you are not the patient type, you can order it to go. The tacos and quesadillas come in trios and are quite filling, so think before you order too much. Located again in the hip area of Anjos, where all the new restaurants are popping up!
O Cartaxinho
This is not a hip place, but one where you get a grilled dorado and two boiled potatoes for 12,- and a glass of wine for 3,-. The quality of the fish is very good and they serve nice Portuguese wine on a white tablecloth. If you want a real authentic Portuguese experience and don't want to spend a lot of money, this is the place for you.
This is the equivalent, but on the beach. You sit on yellow plastic chairs, feet in the sand, and watch the surfers while enjoying your grilled sea bass or grilled calamari and drinking vino verde. Very simple, but very good and very affordable. A gem in the middle of all the fancy expensive beach bars next to it!
